Difference between revisions of "Prusai3"

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|Manufacturer Link=http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
 
|Manufacturer Link=http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
 
|Category=Other
 
|Category=Other
−
|Operational Status=Working
+
|Operational Status=BROKEN
 
|Super Users=User:amx109, User:Nathan7
 
|Super Users=User:amx109, User:Nathan7
 
|Acquisition Details=We Built It
 
|Acquisition Details=We Built It
Line 13: Line 13:
 
Our 3d printer based on the [http://noiserep.blogspot.nl/2012/10/the-prusa-i3.html Prusa i3] design.  
 
Our 3d printer based on the [http://noiserep.blogspot.nl/2012/10/the-prusa-i3.html Prusa i3] design.  
  
−
=== Specifications ===
+
We call it 'Brenno the Printer'
−
* Maximum print sizes: 170mm, 170mm, "a lot" (x,y,z). However the printing will suffer from "warping" much before those limits are reached.  
+
 
−
* Minimal print resolution: ?, ?, ? (x, y z).  
+
= Current Status =
 +
 
 +
Lightweight stepper/extruder is working and so the machine is functional.
 +
 
 +
However it cannot yet be used for prints large/lengthy prints. The glass plate is warped, resulting in bad prints and the stepper on the extruder gets very hot.
 +
 
 +
== Known Issues ==
 +
* Z axis slips
 +
* Glass bed is not flat
 +
* the frame needs re-building because of the mounting holes not being aligned correctly
 +
 
 +
= 3D Printing Process =
 +
The process is this
 +
 
 +
* create STL file
 +
* slice STL file, export to gcode
 +
* print gcode
 +
 
 +
== STL file ==
 +
 
 +
Many popular CAD/3D programs can output STL. here's some we use
 +
 
 +
* Blender
 +
* OpenSCAD
 +
 
 +
And you can get ready made 3D objects from
 +
 
 +
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse]
 +
 
 +
== Slicing the STL ==
 +
We use the slicer software called [http://slic3r.org Slic3r] - it will generate the actual printer commands (G-code).<br>
 +
 
 +
Sometimes slic3r complains (even if blender finds no problems with the model). To fix it use the following magic webservice (this is an interface to butt.netfabb.com ) :
 +
 
 +
curl --data-binary @orig.stl stlfix.jit.su -o fixed.stl
 +
 
 +
The gcode produced by our slic3r configuration will automatically 'home' the printer before it prints, and once its finished printing it will move the nozzle to X0, turn the hotend temperature down to 160 and turn off the motors.
 +
 
 +
== Printing the STL ==
 +
 
 +
We use [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Pronterface] to print.
 +
 
 +
* Load the program
 +
* Hit 'connect' to connect to the printer
 +
* Load the gcode file
 +
* hit print and it should do its work. it can take upto 5mins before the printer actually starts printing.
 +
 
 +
== Maintaining the printer during printing ==
 +
 
 +
* Make sure the hotend nozzle is free from plastic before it starts printing. Grab a pair of tweezers and pull any pieces of PLA/ABS away from the nozzle
 +
* if the printer becomes unrepsonsive the following usually fixes it
 +
** turn off the printer
 +
** unplug the USB cable to the printer
 +
* if the printer breaks or isnt printing correctly notify the maintainers. do not try to fix it. this is not because you dont have the ability to, but because the maintainers have a 'history of care' and want to identify recurring issues and hopefully fix them.
 +
 
 +
= Specifications =
 +
* Maximum print sizes: (x,y,z) - 170mm, 170mm, "a lot"
 +
**note the printed object will suffer from "warping" much before those limits are reached.  
 +
* Minimal print resolution: (x, y z) - ?, ?, 0.2mm
 
* Extruder nozzle size: 0.35mm
 
* Extruder nozzle size: 0.35mm
−
* It can print overhangs of <45degrees without scafolding.
+
* It can print overhangs of less than 45degrees without scaffolding.
  
−
 
+
= Printing supplies =
−
=== Printing supplies ===
 
 
* 3mm PLA (hard and britle, doesn't warp much, biodigradable)
 
* 3mm PLA (hard and britle, doesn't warp much, biodigradable)
 
* 3mm ABS (soft and tough - LEGO like plastic, warps much more the PLA)
 
* 3mm ABS (soft and tough - LEGO like plastic, warps much more the PLA)
  
−
=== Toolchain ===
+
= Settings =
−
# Make or download 3d objects in STL format.
+
Settings for the printer depend on the kind of filament.
−
# The slicer software ([http://slic3r.org Slic3r]) will generate the actual printer commands (G-code).
+
 
 +
== PLA ==
 +
* Bed temperature: 60
 +
* Extruder temperature: 185
 +
 
 +
=== Pink PLA ===
 +
For the pink PLA we print at 190 (195 for first layers). Bed at 65
 +
 
 +
== ABS ==
 +
* Bed temperature: 110 (but it seems the bed doesn't seem to reach that at the moment)
 +
* Extrude temperature: 215
 +
 
 +
[[Category:Inventory/3D printers]]

Latest revision as of 21:35, 16 September 2020

TechInc Inventory
Nathan prusa.jpg
Description 3d Printer
Make RepRap
Model i3
Manufacturer Link http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa i3
Category Other
Operational Status BROKEN
Super Users User:amx109, User:Nathan7
Received at
Acquisition Details We Built It
Owner TechInc

Our 3d printer based on the Prusa i3 design.

We call it 'Brenno the Printer'

Current Status

Lightweight stepper/extruder is working and so the machine is functional.

However it cannot yet be used for prints large/lengthy prints. The glass plate is warped, resulting in bad prints and the stepper on the extruder gets very hot.

Known Issues

  • Z axis slips
  • Glass bed is not flat
  • the frame needs re-building because of the mounting holes not being aligned correctly

3D Printing Process

The process is this

  • create STL file
  • slice STL file, export to gcode
  • print gcode

STL file

Many popular CAD/3D programs can output STL. here's some we use

  • Blender
  • OpenSCAD

And you can get ready made 3D objects from

Slicing the STL

We use the slicer software called Slic3r - it will generate the actual printer commands (G-code).

Sometimes slic3r complains (even if blender finds no problems with the model). To fix it use the following magic webservice (this is an interface to butt.netfabb.com ) : 

curl --data-binary @orig.stl stlfix.jit.su -o fixed.stl

The gcode produced by our slic3r configuration will automatically 'home' the printer before it prints, and once its finished printing it will move the nozzle to X0, turn the hotend temperature down to 160 and turn off the motors.

Printing the STL

We use Pronterface to print.

  • Load the program
  • Hit 'connect' to connect to the printer
  • Load the gcode file
  • hit print and it should do its work. it can take upto 5mins before the printer actually starts printing.

Maintaining the printer during printing

  • Make sure the hotend nozzle is free from plastic before it starts printing. Grab a pair of tweezers and pull any pieces of PLA/ABS away from the nozzle
  • if the printer becomes unrepsonsive the following usually fixes it
    • turn off the printer
    • unplug the USB cable to the printer
  • if the printer breaks or isnt printing correctly notify the maintainers. do not try to fix it. this is not because you dont have the ability to, but because the maintainers have a 'history of care' and want to identify recurring issues and hopefully fix them.

Specifications

  • Maximum print sizes: (x,y,z) - 170mm, 170mm, "a lot"
    • note the printed object will suffer from "warping" much before those limits are reached.
  • Minimal print resolution: (x, y z) - ?, ?, 0.2mm
  • Extruder nozzle size: 0.35mm
  • It can print overhangs of less than 45degrees without scaffolding.

Printing supplies

  • 3mm PLA (hard and britle, doesn't warp much, biodigradable)
  • 3mm ABS (soft and tough - LEGO like plastic, warps much more the PLA)

Settings

Settings for the printer depend on the kind of filament.

PLA

  • Bed temperature: 60
  • Extruder temperature: 185

Pink PLA

For the pink PLA we print at 190 (195 for first layers). Bed at 65

ABS

  • Bed temperature: 110 (but it seems the bed doesn't seem to reach that at the moment)
  • Extrude temperature: 215
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